Merino 101 - from shearing to wearing!

 We've been asked about how wool is selected and processed, and what makes a good fabric, so here it is - Merino 101!

Only certain strains of NZ Merino produce wool of a fine enough character, and with enough crimp, tensile strength and length to be used to make superfine performance merino jersey fabric.

• Cleaning: shorn fleeces must be cleaned before in can be processed into wool yarn.  Vegetable matter and manure must be removed. In poor quality fleece this can be as much as 50% of the weight is not wool

• Sorting: The back and neck areas produce the best quality wool.  Wool from the back end, legs and sometimes belly is too full of manure to use.  These are "dags" and are removed before washing the fleece.

• Fleeces are then sorted into the various types: fine to coarse, short to long.  The more short and coarse fibres left in to be spun, the cheaper the yarn is to produce.  Fabrics made from these yarns have a high tendency to pill, causing itching.

• Washing & scouring: grease is removed from the fleece.

• Willowing: this opens up the wool and loosen the fibres prior to carding.

• Carding: The wool fibres are put through a combing machine that combs the wool many times by transferring it bck and forth from one carding drum to another.

• Roving: the final step in the carding process divides the web of fleece into small strips called pencil rovings.  For a worsted yarn needed for merino jersey and other fabrics, the fibres must be lined up parallel prior to spinning.

• Spinning: The roving, as it comes off the carder has no twist.  It's held together by the oil and natural hooks that exist on the wool fibre.  Superfine and Fine Merino fibres have far fewer of these hooks than standard wool, so greater care has to be taken at this stage. The spinning machines put a twist on the roving and turn it into yarn.

• Dyeing: The most usual dyeing process and the one used in China is called a "hard process".  Whilst good for cellulose-based textiles and synthetics, it can cause merino wool to become brittle; the fibres can break and this causes pilling and itching. In New Zealand a different dyeing process - the "soft process" is used specially for merino wool. 

• Quality Control: Over 35% of all goods made in China are rejected on delivery as faulty or substandard.  Chinese factories work on bulk, pouring out thousands of garments. Very little attention is paid to quality control when a product is being produced cheaply.

Merino Jersey
There are three types of fabric that wool is used for:

1. Flat woven fabric as used for suiting
2. Knitted fabric produced by consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. It may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.
3. Felted fabric

Of these, only merino jersey give the natural elasticity required for a performance/activity garment.

The simplest knit fabric (and the cheapest to manufacture) is "single" jersey.  This is a weft knit fabric in which a layer of loops are formed using a single yarn. One of the drawbacks of single jersey is that it can skew easily when cut.  You can often see this effect on the side seams of cotton T-shirts that appear straight when new but twisted once washed. Unless great care is taken, this can happen to merino single jersey too.

The best merino jersey fabric, and the one we use for all our Taranaki 190 range, is "double" jersey. This is a weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. The result is a much smoother and more stable fabric that still retains elasticity but is far less prone to skewing.

CMT - "Cut, Make, Trim": This is the process of making garments.  Crucially, merino jersey, because of its natural elasticity, should only be cut in small batches to prevent skewing and stretching.  Our manufacturing partner lays out no more than 8 layers of fabric at a time, letting the layers rest anything from 12 to 24 hours before cutting to allow the fabric torelax and recover.  Other manufacturers may cut anything up to 20 layers at any one time, and may not let the layers rest and recover at all.

Once the layers have been set up, they must be moved down to the cutting machines.  If the layers are pulled down or moved on rollers or a conveyor belt, again the fabric may stretch and skew.  Our manufacturer has specialist cutting tables that direct jets of air up under the layers so that they can be "floated" down with the minimum of disturbance to the layers of fabric.

Throughout all the processes there are areas where manufacturers cut corners, usually by using:

• Less good quality fleece and fibres
• Short fibres that will eventually cause pilling and itching
• Single jersey fabric
• Light weight fabric
• "Hard" dyeing process
• Inappropriate general equipment rather than purpose-designed equipment.
• And by cutting too many layers at once.

Superfine double jersey merino is not a simple fabric.  It takes great skill and experience to handle it properly.  The team at Soma President who make our gear have been trained and acquired years of experience, and it shows.




                                 
                                           

LAYERING - NOT JUST FOR CAKES!

It's a misconception held by many that "layering" is a matter of layering no more than 3 pieces of clothing, one on top of the other i.e. base layer, mid layer, and top layer, and that is all you need regardless of climate, weather conditions etc. In fact it's nonsense!

“Multilayering” is undoubtedly the best system for maintaining your body at an ideal and constant temperature, but you do not always need 3 layers and sometimes you will need more. It all depends on both the prevailing and the expected weather conditions. Whilst in most circumstances 3 will be more than adequate, sometimes you may need only 1 or 2, sometimes you may need 4 or even 5. The principle is simple; several thin layers are better than one or two thick layers. Whatever your outdoor pursuit and whatever the climatic conditions, layering offers the best for your personal well-being and comfort, and the only way to ensure best protection.

THE 1st or BASELAYER
The base layer performs two essential tasks. Firstly it regulates body moisture and therefore must be worn close to the body in order to absorb and release moisture. Its capacity for managing this rapidly allows you to feel dry and comfortable, and your body conserves its heat. Unlike synthetics, Merino has the ability to both absorb and release moisture simultaneously, through hydrophobic and hydrophilic action. It therefore regulates moisture more evenly. Secondly the baselayer regulates body heat. Merino has the ability to generate heat whilst wet, thereby giving protection against potentially dangerous heat-loss.

Many people also make the mistake of thinking that a thick baselayer is better than a thinner one. This is not true. A single thick baselayer is suitable only for specific climate/weather conditions, and these can change in a single day!

The Chocolate Fish layering system is based on a mix of 195gsm weight layers. The basic baselayer is the Taranaki long-sleeve crew or T-shirt. In colder conditions, this can be augmented by the 190 weight Taranaki singlet, which gives an extra layer of warmth exactly where it is needed, around the body's core. Should the weather or climate conditions improve, this can be easily removed.

Additionally the Taranaki 190 Zipneck can be used in conjunction with the singlet, the singlet plus long-sleeve Crew or T-shirt, or worn as a baselayer in it's own right, the quarter zip giving ventilation when and where necessary. The Taranaki Zipneck can therefore be used both as a baselayer and a lightweight midlayer.

THE 2nd LAYER
The second layer's job is to provide extra insulation and warmth. It is usually heavier but not always, should keep you comfortable and warm, and guarantee you a maximal temperature. The air cells in Merino fibres trap the warm air giving you an insulation layer between your body and your outer layer.

The 2nd layer should also be capable of absorbing and releasing body moisture to the outside, preferably at the same rate as the base layer, in order to maintain a good even temperature. Depending on season/climate/weather conditions, both our Taranaki 190 and TeMata 260 can be worn as mid or secondary layers.

THE TOP LAYER The third layer gives protection against the elements and is normally a wind and water/shower proof shell. Ideally it should have a hood of some kind, and be long enough to protect the upper thighs. If the fabric of your outer layer is not made of a ”breathable” fabric, the moisture from the base and 2nd layers cannot escape and will be re-absorbed, leaving you feeling cold and wet.

BREATHABILITY
Merino cannot be measured in the same way as synthetics - it doesn’t like being boiled for one thing (which is how they in effect test for this - see below).

However the nature of the Merino fibres are such that, unlike synthetics, they are porous - allowing the exchange of both air and moisture. Which is why even in heatwaves, a Merino baselayer will keep you feeling comfortable where a synthetic one will simply make you feel hot and sweaty. Similarly in cold conditions, Merino will keep you warm and dry. In fact Merino can absorb up to 30% of it's own weight in moisture before it even starts to feel damp.

For maximum performance, Merino should be layered with Merino, so that the baselayer can pass on the moisture to the next layer at an equal rate. If Merino is to be layered with synthetics, it is preferable to make the base layer Merino rather than the mid layer. This will not however result in the very best performance - that achieved by layering Merino with Merino.

To test the "breathability of a synthetic fabric a receptacle of  water kept at boiling point is covered with the fabric to be tested.  The water vapour passing through the fabric in a 24 hour period is measured.  The more “breathable” the fabric, the higher the number:    <2 000 g = weak = Level 1 to <15 000 g = excellent = Level 5.

                           

Rats' Nadgers! or "What scientists get up to behind closed doors"!

Anyone who's tried wearing superfine merino - especially ours :-) - will testify to it's comfort.  What most people can't work out is why it's so comfortable.  So this is the scientific bit, courtesy of  Zque Merino, broken down into it's key points.

Natural air-con

• Merino fibre has a hydrophobic (water repelling) exterior and hydrophilic (water loving) interior that confer to its unique moisture management properties.

• In contrast to most synthetic fibres, Merino has the capacity to remove large amounts (up to 35% of its own weight) of moisture (primarily generated through sweating) from the skin surface before the fibre even begins to feel wet.

• As it absorbs moisture, Merino fibre releases a small but perceptible amount of heat, preventing the wearer from chilling in wet, cool conditions. In hot conditions the reverse effect occurs – affording a natural means of buffering the body’s microclimate. 

 Odour management

• Body odour arises as a by-product of bacteria, which proliferate in warm moist environments - for example, when sweat is allowed to remain on the skin for a period of time.

• Merino fibre, through its complex chemical and physical structure, resists the development and proliferation of bacteria through its innate anti-microbial properties, and by actively moving moisture away from the skin.

• Odour molecules are absorbed into Merino fibre, effectively becoming trapped and undetectable to the human nose. However, they are readily released upon laundering. 

Performance management

•  Animal and human studies suggest decreased sexual performance in synthetic and synthetic blend underwear, but improved performance when wearing underwear made from natural fibres, particularly wool. 

You can read the full report here, with all the relevant scientific references.  And yes, it would appear that the scientist carrying out the "performance management" study really did put rats in knickers!

However, in all seriousness, all this goes to show that merino wool's reputation for performance in all outdoor conditions, unlike other fabrics now used for "outdoor" gear, really has a genuine scientific basis. 

Fit for Purpose (2)

"Fit for Purpose" defined by Macmillan Dictionary as

"something that is fit for purpose is good enough to do the job it was designed to do". European law dictates that goods must be fit for purpose when sold.

With the news of yet another walker on Ben Nevis dying from extreme hypothermia, and others having to be rescued from our fells and mountains suffering from hypotherma, we make no apology for posting this again.

Once upon a time, back in the day, in a time now lost in the mists of iniquity – or something, it wasn’t easy to get lost on a fellside or mountain. For a start you needed public transport, for another there were few maps to tell you where to go. So comparatively few people went out/up there in the first place. The late great Alfred Wainwright spurred the opening up of the Lakeland Fells to the public. The historic Mass Trespass on the Derbyshire Peaks was the catalyst for thousands more to take up “ rambling”. However when we look at the old film footage, we see people dressed in woolly jumpers, britches, woolly stockings and stout boots, with the ubiquitous woolly bobble hat on head. We look at them and laugh – but their gear was good. Not posh, not technical, just good. It was the same sort of gear that Wainwright himself wore, that Mallory and Irvine wore up Everest and which has been proven to be actually better than the modern equivalent.

Back in those days, most people’s first taste of the moors and mountains was with a school trip, a scouts or guides group, or participating in the Duke’s Award scheme. In every case you were led by someone experienced who made sure you were wearing warm and practical clothing. And whilst few of us could afford proper hiking boots, the Army Surplus stores were a cheap source of Army Surplus boots. We all carried spare jumpers, socks, Kendal Mint Cake, and the equally ubiquitous orange plastic survival bag. This was the bog-standard kit of the bog-standard rambler.

Where did we get this kit? This was the age of woolly jumpers. Mostly made by our mums who knit them, the socks, mitts and bobble hats from good old-fashioned wool. In my case the wool came from our own sheep – wonderful stuff – kept out barbed wire and sometimes felt like it! If you were dead posh you had one of the brilliant close knit Norwegian sweaters that were coming in to the shops. Dad’s old tweed trousers often got cut down to make substantial britches, and we had rubberised windjammers and cagoules with lots of pockets. Nobody in those days gave a damn about weight. We were tough in those days!

How things have changed. To start with, more folks than ever are heading for the hills. Outdoor organisations and government has pushed for ever wider access to the outdoors. This is undoubtedly a good thing. The Great Outdoors has never been more popular, a popularity increased by the number of TV programmes showing the delights of Snowdonia, the Munros, and the Lake District to all and sundry. How often do we see the presenter blithely heading off (followed of course by their camera crew) extolling the beauties of the scenery? But how often do they talk about how dangerous our mountains and fells can be even in summer, and the necessity of wearing the right sort of gear? Rarely.

We who make and sell gear for those who work and play in the great outdoors bear a huge responsibility. Whether we like it or not, people’s lives depend on what they are wearing. It helps if the people behind the brands have experience of the mountains, moors and fells. But how many of them are fat-bottomed marketing men who rarely stir outside the city limits? How do they know what works and what doesn’t. Not a lot if we judge by some of the stuff they push as “outdoor” and even “thermal”.

There’s an old saying amongst those of us oldies who have been working and playing outdoors for donkey’s years: “Cotton kills!” We simply did not wear it. We knew only too well how it absorbed and hung on to water, so if you wore it and got wet, you stayed wet and got cold pretty damn quickly. It’s why denims are still a big no-no for outdoor wear. This applies equally to all cellulose based fabrics such as linen. Imagine my horror then to see bamboo (which is really "Rayon") touted as the new wonder thermal material! It’s used for babies nappies for heaven’s sake because it absorbs moisture so quickly and hangs on to it! The stuff takes ages to dry – far longer than cotton, so it’s just as, if not more unsuitable than cotton for outdoor gear. Just because something is worn next to the skin doesn’t mean it’s not going to get wet. Added to all this is the current pursuit of ever-lighter gear. This uses ever-flimsier synthetics that give neither protection nor warmth once the body wearing it stops moving.

Unfortunately, and incredibly sadly, as we have seen several time this year already, people are being caught in unexpected and difficult conditions where their clothes simply did not afford them enough protection. We have a duty to not only get the right info out to newcomers to rambling/hiking/trekking/walking, we the providers of gear have to be brutally honest about what works and what doesn’t. We can’t push products of dubious effectiveness on to people just because we think we can get a cheap deal on fabric from China.

The outdoors is there to be enjoyed by as many people as possible, but they must be informed as to what is needed to keep them safe – and that includes what they should be wearing.

OK - Why "Chocolate Fish" Merino?

It's a question we keep getting asked so here's the answer. Just around the coast from Wellington, is the most fabulous (if idiosyncratic) cafe - The Chocolate Fish. It used to be on Scorching Bay, but it's now moved to Shelly Bay. We love the place - great coffee and muffins and a great view.

We had just returned from a field trip to the Southern Alps, full of the joys of superfine NZ merino baselayers having dumped smelly, nasty synthetics that didn't work, and were in the Chocolate Fish. We had come up with the idea to import the wooly stuff ourselves in to the UK and were discussinging business names. We wanted a name for our company that was essentially "New Zealand", reflected high quality, that was non-gender-specific, and made people go "What!" In other words - memorable. And the name of our favourite cafe leapt immediately to mind. So, we're Chocolate Fish Merino!

Vango Banshee 300

Our old Vango backpacking tent gave up the ghost on us - admittedly after 35 years use - in New Zealand the other year. Feeling the need to replace this, mostly for being able to join in Terry's Peak District National Park 60th Anniversary Social Meet, we looked for something suitable, and also to make quick overnight stops on our forays through France.

We've ended up buying a Vango Banshee 300 - technically a 3 person backpacking tent, and we've just tested it out in  the garden.
Good:

• Designwise, I think it's been well thought out.  I particularly like the side entrances that make ingress and egress much easier.
• It's definitely quick to put up and take down, with the outer going up first.
• The extra wee mesh baggy things for holding all the bits and pieces are a great idea.
• There's enough headroom to sit up easily and comfortably.
• The weight is 2.6 kilos, which between 2 people is light enough in my book.
• There's plenty of room between the inner and outer for storing kit/gear without encroaching on sleeping space.

 Bad:

• In terms of manufacture, I regret to say I think it poor.  Immediately we tried to hook the inner to the outer, one of the elastic straps holding the little T widget came adrift because it hadn't been sewn into the seam properly.
• The clips that hold the inner base to the outer are flimsy and brittle.  I can see us replacing these almost immediately with carabiners.

As I suspected, the number of people these tents are supposed to accommodate is vastly overrated.  It's for this reason didn't go for the Banshee 200 two-person tent. The Banshee 300 is NOT a 3 person tent unless the 3 people are very skinny, and very friendly.  For two people (and the dog)  it's comfortable. 

It's a shame the Chinese (I suspect) manufacturing lets it down.  But that's the story about everything made in China - quality control just doesn't happen it seems.

Would I recommend it?  I want to actually camp in it before saying more.  However on first impressions, if all you're looking for is a decent, small, reasonably lightweight tent for occasional use, at an inexpensive price, then this may suit your needs and your pocket, but be prepared to make minor repairs almost immediately.

Will give more feedback once we've had a few nights out in it.

Can I own a Canadian?

This was sent to me by daughter - bless her!

In her (US) radio show, Dr Laura Schlesinger said that, to an observant Orthodox Jew, homosexuality is an abomination according to Leviticus 18:22, and cannot be condoned under any circumstance.  The following response is an open letter to Dr. Laura, penned by a US resident, which was posted on the Internet.  It's funny, as well as informative:

Dear Dr. Laura:
Thank you for doing so much to educate people regarding God's Law.  I have learned a great deal from your show, and try to share that knowledge with as many people as I can.  When someone tries to defend the homosexual lifestyle, for example, I simply remind them that Leviticus 18:22 clearly states it to be an abomination ... End of debate.

I do need some advice from you, however, regarding some other elements of God's Laws and how to follow them.
1. Leviticus 25:44 states that I may possess slaves, both male and female, provided they are purchased from neighboring nations.  A friend of mine claims that this applies to Mexicans, but not Canadians.  Can you clarify?  Why can't I own Canadians?
2. I would like to sell my daughter into slavery, as sanctioned in Exodus 21:7.  In this day and age, what do you think would be a fair price for her?
3. I know that I am allowed no contact with a woman while she is in her period of Menstrual uncleanliness - Lev.15: 19-24. The problem is how do I tell?  I have tried asking, but most women take offense.
4. When I burn a bull on the altar as a sacrifice, I know it creates a pleasing odor for the Lord - Lev.1:9.  The problem is my neighbors. They claim the odor is not pleasing to them.  Should I smite them?
5. I have a neighbor who insists on working on the Sabbath.  Exodus 35:2 clearly states he should be put to death.  Am I morally obligated to kill him myself, or should I ask the police to do it?
6. A friend of mine feels that even though eating shellfish is an abomination, Lev. 11:10, it is a lesser abomination than homosexuality.  I don't agree.  Can you settle this?
7. Lev. 21:20 states that I may not approach the altar of God if I have a defect in my sight.  I have to admit that I wear reading glasses.  Does my vision have to be 20/20, or is there some wiggle-room here?
8. Most of my male friends get their hair trimmed, including the hair around their temples, even though this is expressly forbidden by Lev. 19:27.  How should they die?
9. I know from Lev. 11:6-8 that touching the skin of a dead pig makes me unclean, but may I still play football if I wear gloves?
10. My uncle has a farm.  He violates Lev.19:19 by planting two different crops in the same field, as does his wife by wearing garments made of two different kinds of thread (cotton/polyester blend). He also tends to curse and blaspheme a lot. Is it really necessary that we go to all the trouble of getting the whole town together to stone them? Lev.24:10-16. Couldn't we just burn them to death at a private family affair, like we do with people who sleep with their in-laws? (Lev. 20:14)

I know you have studied these things extensively and thus enjoy considerable expertise in such matters, so I'm confident you can help.

Thank you again for reminding us that God's word is eternal and unchanging.

Your adoring fan,>Your adoring fan,
James M. Kauffman, Ed.D. Professor Emeritus, Dept. Of Curriculum,Instruction, and Special Education University of Virginia(It would be a damn shame if we couldn't own a Canadian :)